Wine Blog

Piperade is without a shadow of a doubt one of San Francisco's best Basque restaurants. The menu is exhilarating, the ambiance warm with a natural wood decor, the owner and servers professional and wine savvy. In the comfort of the atrium and under cloudless blue skies (so very rare for the City of Fog), we were feeling in good spirits; a sampling of the seemingly innumerable and hopelessly appealing hors d'oeuvres was in order. Having uncorked a bottle of Simonnet Febvre Chablis 2005, we were prepared for the ripe watermelon and tomato salad, tossed green beans, cala a la plancha and stuffed piquillo peppers.

The magic occurred when we tasted the stuffed piquillo peppers along with a sip of Chablis.  The warm and oozing goat cheese with the firm, flavorful peppers and fresh herbs were met by the vibrant citrus of this un-oaked Chardonnay in a splash of warm and cold, tangy and rich. The French kiss of flavorful Basque cuisine and minerally Chablisien wine combined with the caress of the sun in a sort of Spanish pueblo setting,  was no less than sublime - and yet at the same time so very simple. The key was in the harmony and I must say we couldn't have planned it. Some (if not most!) of the best pairings are fortuitous.

Try this combination at home and let us know if it moves you, too!

We just returned from a pleasant wine tasting pilgrimage to one of California's epicenters for quality Pinot Noir: San Luis Obispo. Given that the majority of the bottles we consume on a weekly basis are from Burgundy, we figured we needed to change it up a bit, experience other versions of Pinot Noir to “better appreciate the grape's potential”. In short, we were thirsty!

Market research has never been so enjoyable, so easy on the eyes and taste buds. The countryside in San Luis is simply breathtakingly beautiful, with extinct volcanic craters lining up on the horizon, nestled between rolling golden hills, orange orchards interspersed with olive trees and lavender, lazy grazing cows and sheep, and my favorite - row upon row of vivacious vines, extending as far as the eye can see. The coastal influence makes San Luis Obispo the Carneros of mid-California and locals believe they are well situated to craft Burgundian-style Pinot Noir.

Wolff vineyards in particular went to great lengths to explain the Burgundian-like techniques they practice in the vineyards and cellars to make their Pinot more French in style. Indeed, one of the proprietors described Wolff's Estate Pinot Noir as a stepping stone between California and Burgundian Pinots. The vineyard is planted on the slope of one of those striking extinct craters and benefits from volcanic soil with excellent drainage. The Pinot Noir is hardly irrigated and the clones are all straight from Dijon and Pommard. Additionally, the vineyards are farmed organically (and I understand the winery will soon be solar-powered). We were definitely impressed with the resulting wines, and had to agree that despite the higher alcohol content (which is inevitable in California) of their Pinot Noir, it did taste and smell of Burgundy.

That said (and thank you again to Wolff vineyards for the warm welcome and the informative tasting), if you really want to get your palate on a Burgundian style Pinot, we have to recommend that you return to the source. Though California releases many truly excellent Pinots, they are often more expensive (alas!) and higher in alcohol than your average delicious red Burgundy, and our market research indicates they lack that hint of je ne sais quoi that can only come from Burgundian terroir.

For less than $20 a bottle, Louis Latour brings you Santenay 2003 and Marsannay 2006, both from the famed Côte d'Or. These two Pinots provide the minerality, the depth of fruit and the slight touch of wood coupled with nice acidity and ripe tannins that, when combined in your glass, form the perfect picture of Burgundian Pinot. Because the fruit is kept in balance and the alcohol is moderate, your palate is able to perceive of the minerality that would otherwise be overshadowed.  Delicate nuances are also able to shine through and acidity creates shape in the mouth.  Unmistakable earthiness is the final seal of authenticity on the palate. These Pinot Noirs exemplify what local winemakers are striving for: true Burgundian style - balanced yet unbridled pleasure.

There is no doubt that Californian Pinots yield tons of pleasure as well – or that their particular flair should be appreciated for its own intrinsic qualities and uniqueness (once again, the point of our market research!). But if it’s truly Burgundy you want, our advice is that you look no further. Bonne degustation!

Our Top Three Values of 2006 (Whites)

The very first reviews of this vintage were unbelievably optimistic. The press had gained its second wind after the rush of the 2005 red and white Burgundies. Critics were proclaiming that the 2006 was to eclipse its predecessor, offering some of the best examples of perfectly balanced Chardonnay in decades. With less Botrytis than in 2005, these wines were said to have the purity of fruit that only comes from optimally ripe and healthy grapes.

Given more time to review and re-taste, a number of critics have come to a different conclusion altogether - 2006 is indeed great, but overshadowing the immense quality of the vintage are the staggering price tags which make the 2005s seem like royal bargains in comparison. Considering the exchange rate when importers were purchasing these wines, the prices seem justifiable but nevertheless shocking. Collectors take one quick glance at price lists before hustling to snatch up any remaining 2005s, as if the slogan for the 2006s read: "Last year was just phenomenal, wasn't it?."

It was. But 2006 offers wines with lower acidity and better fruit. They are more approchable and can be consumed earlier. For restaurants, these wines spell 'bonheur' because they have the prestige of a legendary vintage with the early-drinking advantage so typical of lesser vintages. Burgundy expert Allen Meadows comments: "There is so much richness to the wines that they will probably always provide quality drinking experiences in much the same way that the ‘92s did in their youth as they never did really close up. Perhaps the best thing about 2006 is that it should be an ideal vintage for restaurant wine lists or even as wine by the glass alternatives."Indeed, the quality of the 2006 vintage in undeniable and there are values to be had - for those willing to hunt. You really don't need to look far but for those unwilling, we will make it simple. Here are our top three values in the 2006 vintage:

1. Montagny La Grande Roche 1er cru 2006

This wine offers Premier cru quality from an up and coming appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise. It has repeatedly been praised by international wine critics. Unoaked, sleek and clean with brilliant minerality, ripe peaches and lemon zest, this $25 white Burgundy is a striking value on its own but is clearly unrivaled when on a shelf with California Chardonnays.

Robert Parker says: 'Louis Latour...for all intents and purposes, but Montagny on the wine map.'

2. Viré Clessé 2006

Everyone who tastes this wine marvels at the lovely oak accents and rich texture on the palate. We then explain that this Chardonnay from the Mâconnais is 100% unoaked. Such spice, such round, mouth-filling body is remarkable in a wine from the Mâconnais. Apple pie with cinnamon, vanilla and lemon cream coat the palate. In blind tastings, this wine has been mistaken for high-ranking premier cru Burgundy. At $18, the sheer quality of this wine shines brighter than that of any other white we have seen in this category.

3. Beaune Blanc 2006

And yes, values can be found in the Côte d'Or as well. This is a favorite among true Louis Latour aficionados. Consistent in quality and perfectly-oaked, this wine also offers relative value compared to its neighbors. Beaune Blanc 2006 was Bruce Sanderson's favorite wine of the vintage: 'The 2006 whites achieved a high level of ripeness, and the acidity is on the low side; my favorites were those with the best balance, like the fresh, honey and peach-scented Beaune (87-90, non-blind).' At only $27, this is perhaps the quintessential value of the 2006 vintage.

It's too bad Pinot Days is an annual tasting. For those who had the distinct pleasure of attending or working the event this year, you understand when we say that such wonderful wine and fare should be showcased more often! Over 3,000 trade members and consumers filed into the Grand Hall at Fort Mason this weekend to enjoy 400 Pinot Noirs from all over the world, sipped alongside morsels of cheese, wine-infused chocolates, local olives in blood-orange citrus  marinades and spicy charcuterie.

It is difficult to list just a few highlights since quality was so widespread. As you can imagine, the wines from Louis Latour attracted quite a following and many commented that they were among the best in the room. With the advantage of being a few tables down from some of the ripest cheeses in the tasting, our 2005s were well received with a plate full of aged goudas and Spanish blue goat cheese. The Beaune Vignes Franches 2005 was definitely the highlight. Served out of a decanter, it was dark and pure with blackberries, licorice, black raspberries and minerals. A half hour of air opened it up immensely and allowed the quality of the 2005 vintage to show through in the absence of harsh tannins or gripping acidity.

Despite a few random bottle thieves and a sleepy start due to the Euro Cup final, we feel that this tasting was a grand success. With each passing year, the locals seem to get a better grip on Burgundy. Their questions are more intelligent, their gazes more confident, their tasting experience more complete. One gentleman shared with us that he put on his 'Burgundy hat' before tasting our wines because after sampling several Russian River Pinots, he needed to adjust his expectations in terms of acidity, fruit and alcohol. This mental shift enabled him to appreciate the elegance and subtle refinement of our Pinot Noirs. 

We hope that all those who stopped by for a taste of Louis Latour will send us their comments on The Grand Tasting.  See you next year at Pinot Days 2009!

Not to be confused with the grapey party drink Beaujolais Nouveau, the wines from the 10 picturesque crus of Beaujolais represent high-quality Gamay, similar in status to Village-level, Pinot Noir-based wines from Burgundy with the distinct advantage of a more modest price tag. Some would argue that these intricate, terroir-driven Gamays are among the best values in France. Though somewhat misunderstood and overlooked by the majority of Burgundy-lovers, the crus are vinified using traditional Burgundian techniques and are more often than not treated to Grand Cru-style care in the cellars. Each cru is a reflection of its particular terroir with transparency as one of the guding principals in the Cuverie. These wines are especially remarkable for their ability to pair well with food, thanks to the pronounced acidity of the Gamay grape, and for the enjoyment they offer after only a few months in the bottle.

Louis Latour has always kept a distant but careful eye on Beaujolais, awaiting an opportunity to invest in what he estimated to be one of the most undervalued wine regions of France. The current economic crisis in Beaujolais and the relatively inexpensive land prices have created much opportunity for interested winery owners from the Côte d'Or. Louis Latour seized the occasion in January of this year, purchasing the winery of Vins Henry Fessy, a 120-year-old domaine that was still family-run, like Maison Louis Latour, and that offered pure and elegant Gamays and Chardonnays from some of Beaujolais' best terroirs.  More on Henry Fessy.

The US launch of Henry Fessy's wines is set for July 1st. We are proud to offer you the following Cru Beaujolais, all from the 2007 vintage:  Fleurie, Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin à Vent and Régnié. 

The ‘Big Rock’ or La Grande Roche from Montagny is perhaps the best value premier cru in all of Burgundy. From the lesser-known region called the Côte Chalonnaise (just south of the famous Côte d’Or), La Grande Roche has modest origins and thus cannot command the prices that its northern neighbors from the Golden Slope can and do demand. Yet the quality of the chardonnay fruit from this little 21 square mile niche is truly outstanding.

The vineyards of La Grande Roche are perched high up on a summit overlooking the vine-studded valley. Planted on limestone bedrock with chalky surface soils and a south-east exposure, the chardonnay vines in this very special vineyard are treated to an abundance of sunlight and minerals which never fail to show up in the tasting.

As Maison Louis Latour has exclusive rights to a portion of this vineyard, the grapes are nurtured and tended to in the same manner as those of Corton Charlemagne. Stringent quality requirements translate into low yields and fully ripened berries that are high in natural sugar content. This typical ripeness and expressive minerality have come to define the gustative profile of La Grande Roche. With no expenses spared, the Big Rock grapes are pressed then vinified and aged in Louis Latour’s cellars in Beaune; the same world-class winemaking team that crafts Le Montrachet also supervises every stage in Montagny’s evolution from the crush to bottling. 100% stainless steel preserves the vibrant citrus and crisp apple fruit that never cease to charm Montagny-drinkers year after year.

If you have yet to taste a wine from Montagny, La Grande Roche 2003 should be your introduction. In keeping with the style of the vintage, this Montagny is the epitome of ripeness but it also has lovely acidity to complement the fatness. It reveals spicy aromas of fennel which give way to ripe lemons and juicy apricots. The length is substantial and the finish simply delicious. Try a bottle of La Grande Roche today for only $19!! Mention this blog article in the comment line when you place your order to receive the discount.

The most acclaimed and world-renowned wine critics may have finally reached a consensus on one thing: The 2005 vintage in Burgundy surpasses (by far!) every other vintage contender from the last several decades! Perfect fruit, gorgeous acidity, impeccable balance and marked terroir expression – what more could one desire? Decancter calls this a ‘hands-off’ vintage - these stellar wines virtually made themselves. Winemakers continue to marvel at the lovely skin-to-juice ratio, the flawless berries that didn’t require sorting and the effortless achievement of alcohol levels between 12.5 and 13.5 degrees.

Burgundy expert Allen Meadows of Burghound takes the enthusiasm for this vintage to a new level: “2005 is quite simply the best top to bottom vintage that I have ever seen, period, full stop……In short, mortgage your house, sell your dog, hock your spouse (but don’t forget where, you’ll eventually need someone to enjoy these wines with!) or do whatever you have to do but don’t miss the best wines of the vintage or you will I believe live to regret it.” Convinced yet?

We have decided to indulge in the generous and abundant spirit of the 2005 vintage by offering you these fabulous wines in a pre-sale. Though pricing will not be published on-line until summer, we would like to honor our patrons with the chance to reserve and purchase these amazing wines before general release. If you would like to receive a private offering, send us an email at customerservice@burgundyandbeyond.com with 2005 Burgundies in the subject line. And spread the word….or on second thought don’t – you may just want to keep all of these jewels for yourself!

Is there anything more deliciously decadent than high quality, Brut Rosé champagne? Anything more fitting than a brilliant pink sparkler to usher in the springtime? We think not.

This brilliant bubbly is as tasty as it is gorgeous. Crafted from 60% Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay, it glows a brilliant salmon pink in the glass. Elegant and rich, with concentrated aromas of crushed raspberries, blackberries and rose petals, this champagne marries wonderfully with strawberries and chocolate.

The house of de Venoge has been earning itself a reputation for excellence in the heart of Champagne since its founding in 1837 by Henri Marc de Venoge (a Swiss!). Only the cuvée juices, or first press juices are used at de Venoge; the taille or second press juice, is discarded. Vinification at de Venoge is a true mosaic of flavors and colors embodied in the fifty-one still wines from one single vineyard or single grape variety with which the winemaker will compose his masterpiece. The wines see no barrel aging, with the house style defined by natural champagnes of tremendous finesse and elegance. The bottles mature in the de Venoge underground cellars for a minimum of three years (instead of the required 15 months required by law) before release.

The result is consistent quality and refinement in each bottle.

Let yourself be dazzled by the remarkable elegance and breed of de Venoge sparklers today. Try their Brut Rosé as a rosy introduction to this deliciously elegant portfolio.

Visit www.burgundyandbeyond.com for more excellent French selections

The very name of this appellation, ‘Volnay’, sounds just like silk feels, and its wines boast the same luxurious texture. This is perhaps one of the reasons that Volnay’s Pinot Noirs have been famous for over 800 years. Considered the Chambolle Musigny of the Côte de Beaune (Hugh Johnson), Volnay produces wines that are consistently ‘lacy’, ‘tender’, ‘silky’, ‘delicate’ ‘elegant’ ‘velvety’ ‘lush’ ‘noble’ ‘well bred’ ‘voluptuous’ ‘fragrant’ ‘graceful’ ‘fruity’ ‘refined’ ‘well colored’ with an ‘incomparable bouquet’. Their incredible intricacy is only limited by the refinement of your palate!

For Bordeaux lovers who seek to tackle Burgundy, Hugh Johnson offers you a Pauillac-inspired analogy to help you speak the new language of Burgundy and to understand the stylistic differences between two of its famous appellations: Volnay and Aloxe Corton. He claims that Chateau Latour fans will be enamored with the wines of Corton (Corton Grancey for example) while Lafite lovers will naturally prefer Volnays. I find this stylistic comparison of two famous Cab blend producers and two famous Pinot Noir appellations both intriguing and appropriate. However, I would still insist that even a devout Latour drinker could easily fall in love with the wines from Volnay, especially those from Maison Louis Latour!

One distinguishing quality that sets this majestic village and appellation apart is the consistency with which excellent wine is produced from its grapes. As zee French would say, ‘La qualité est toujours au rendez-vous’, or ‘Quality always shows up’. Indeed, one can confidently assert that Volnay offers more remarkable bottles on average than any other appellation in Burgundy, to such an extent that the name of this appellation has become synonymous with guaranteed quality. Le secret? For starters, winemaking in Volnay is extraordinary. The growers consider it a point of honor to maintain the image of their precious appellation. Furthermore, as Volnay is tinier than its neighbors and benefits from more uniformity in terms of the terroir and climate, consistent flavor profiles are easier to attain. Finally, the microclimates are considered to be excellent, providing the ideal conditions to nurture perfectly ripe grapes. Though there are no grand crus in Volnay, there are over 30 premier crus, covering more vineyards on the mid slopes than village level – this, too, speaks for the quality of Volnay’s wines.

Geographically speaking, Volnay is at the edge of the Côte de Beaune, nestled between Meursault, Monthélie and Pommard. It is around 500 feet above sea level and cascades over 527 acres of slopes. All the wine produced in Volnay is red, most of which can age for 8 to 12 years. The flavors of its wines often lean towards raspberries, blackberries and violets.

Our favorite value in Volnay is the Volnay ‘En Chevret’. ‘En Chevret’ is a premier cru vineyard of about 15 acres that lies mid-slope, in the same band of soil where the acclaimed Clos des Chenes, Caillerets and Champans vineyards are situated in the Southern end of the Volnay appellation. This area is where the best premier crus of the appellation are located, in rocky soils that are high in iron content, with less limestone and chalk. The resulting wines are sturdier, offering more concentration and structure. This wine has a deep color and full body, possessing the classic suppleness and feminine characteristics for which Volnay is so celebrated. Pair this Volnay en Chevret with roasted duck or lamb, filet mignon or with cheese: reblochon, brie or époisses. You will not be disappointed!

Press:

Wine Spectator, May 15, 2005: Volnay 1er Cru “En Chevret” 2002
“Plenty of juicy, sour cherry and raspberry notes, matched to a vivid structure. Really elegant, offering ripe tannins but very lively acidity. Subtle length on the finish. 90 Points” ~BS

Vosne Romanée…something is intriguingly elegant about the phonetics of this famous appellation, pronounced ‘Von Romanay’ by the French. Would this winegrowing commune have so charmed and enchanted wine lovers for centuries without the help of that fateful imperial decree in 1865 which added ‘Romannée’ to its name? Not likely, but the wines would certainly not have suffered, as their renown has been uncontested for centuries. The declaration of abbot Courtépée in the 1700s says it all: ‘Il n’y a point à Vosne de vins communs’, or ‘There are no common wines in Vosne’ (reference Matt Kramer’s famous book ‘Making sense of Burgundy’).

The Dukes of Burgundy immortalized this quaint commune by making it their hunting headquarters and wine has been produced on the rolling hills overlooking the village since Roman times. For many wine aficionados today, this appellation represents the untouchable. After all, Vosne Romanée encompasses the legendary vineyards of Romanée Conti, from which one of the rarest and most expensive Pinot Noirs in the world is produced (well over $2,000 a bottle on average), in addition to six other highly esteemed Grand Crus: La Tache, Grand Echézeaux, Echézeaux, Romanée Saint Vivant, Richebourg and La Romanée. If you have ever driven through the village just west of Route Nationale 74 and stopped alongside the road to sample a few forbidden clusters (a risky venture indeed!), you may have accidentally eaten grapes worth their weight in gold.

Behind this veil of intimidation and prestige, Vosne Romanée offers some of the loveliest and most graceful wines from the Côte d’Or. The appellation benefits from the ideal geography, microclimates and soils to obtain the most delicately ripened grapes in all of Burgundy. Yet despite their incredible silkiness, the finesse and exquisite flavor profile of these wines belie an underlying power that enables them to age for decades. Vosne Romanée Grands Crus are among the longest lived in the entire region. According to Robert Parker, top level Vosne Romanées embody Burgundy’s ‘most sumptuous and celestial wines—rich, fat, expansive and staggeringly perfumed. The best examples epitomize wine at its most decadent and hedonistic richness’.

The Louis Latour family has owned a portion of Romanée Saint Vivant in Vosne Romanée since 1898. The celebrity vineyard Romanée Conti is only a skip and a jump across the street from the Latour vines. The vineyard name ‘Les Quatre Journaux’ is derived from an ancient Burgundian measurement ‘journal’ which measured the area a vintner could till in a day. Latour’s Romanée Saint Vivant Les Quatre Journaux is spicy and perfumed with cinnamon notes, cigar box aromas and a distinctly earthy bouquet. The soft, ripe tannins slowly drip, unnoticed, from the top of the mouth onto the tongue. The velvet texture and intense flavors culminate in a persistent, perfumed, spicy finish with a finale of chocolate and red fruits. All of the distinction and breed that the name Vosne Romanée has historically evoked simply emanate from this Grand Cru. Taste this wine and you will agree….it is one of the world’s greatest.

Visit Louis Latour’s Burgundyandbeyond boutique today to find such rare examples of power and elegance in perfect harmony….