Valmoissine Pinot Noir - Our high-altitude movie star wine

09/30/2008     Posted by Alyssa

Domaine de Valmoissine is considered by some wine critics to be one of the highest quality Vin de Pays from France. Located just 50 miles North of Saint Tropez, you would expect this Pinot Noir to be flashy and exuberant, much like the people that frequent Cannes. You imagine big alcohol, feeble acidity, sun-dried fruit and considerable weight on the palate. A Rhône version of the delicate Pinot Noir grape seems only natural.

One taste of Valmoissine demonstrates the contrary. This Southern French wine is actually Burgundian in style. Tom Stevenson of 'The New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia' commented, "Few Burgundians would believe this is not a Burgundy, and a fine one at that." He goes on to say that Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is "better than most Burgundies twice its price." How does Louis Latour obtain Burgundian finesse and elegance in the South of France?

One of the secrets is altitude. Due to global warming, a good number of smart winemakers are running for the hills in order to find suitable terroir that still benefits from a longer growing season and moderate temperatures. Ahead of the trend, Louis Latour found just such a spot high up in the hills of Provence in 1989.  The vineyards of Valmoissine were planted at an altitude of 1,500 feet above sea level, on the site of the ancient monastery of Valmoissine. At that altitude, the evenings are cool and almost frostless while the days are full of Provencal sunshine.  Ripeness is obtained while acidity is preserved during a hang time as long as that of the Grand crus of Burgundy

Speaking of the Grand Crus, Louis Latour treats Valmoissine as if it were one. With the freedom to choose the best plots and orientation during planting, Louis Latour was able to optimize the vineyard conditions.  The vines are south-facing, creating the perfect exposure to the sun. They are treated with the same care as those of the ubiquitous Chambertin. Yields are kept low to ensure optimal ripeness and sugar content in the grapes. Rigorous sorting in the vineyard is commonplace.  The harvest is entirely performed by hand.

The grapes are then sorted and vinified in open-top vats as in Burgundy. The wine is then aged in Louis Latour's own barrels, which complement and enhance the bright Pinot Noir fruit.  The resulting wine is rich in color and balanced in tannins.

Perhaps the best aspect of Louis Latour's Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is that it is able to masquerade as a Village-level Burgundian Pinot Noir. Despite its origins in the South of France and its status as a Vin de Pays, Valmoissine surprises amateurs and experienced tasters alike with its elegance, ripeness, balance and complexity. At only $15 a bottle, this movie star is also a bargain. Try a bottle today - we think you will be bedazzled!

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