Wine Blog

On a scorching 105 degree summer day, the mind tends to seek refuge in cool places. If your mind is anything like ours in these moments of intense heat, it likely finds solace in the thought of an ice-cold glass of Sauvignon Blanc after a long day of work under the glaring July sun. Here are three you can turn to for refreshment this summer.

Saint Bris Sauvignon Blanc 2007

One of the most exciting aspects of this Sauvignon Blanc is its origin, which is neither the Loire nor Bordeaux, but rather Burgundy. Even well-informed French wine drinkers often mistakenly believe that whites from this region are exclusively Chardonnay-based. Surprise – there is Sauvignon Blanc to be found in the North and they are definitely worth the detour.

The appellation of Saint Bris is a tiny Sauvignon Blanc oasis nestled in the region of Auxerrois, adjacent and to the west of Chablis. The Auxerrois and Chablisien vineyards constitute the northernmost sub-region of Burgundy. Saint Bris is therefore known for having cooler temperatures than most Sauvignon Blanc winegrowing regions, which translate into a longer growing season and slower ripening of the grapes. The resulting Sauvignon Blancs are subtly ripe, express aromatic depth, have pronounced minerality and offer distinct freshness. Saint Bris is the saint of Sauvingon Blancs because it is perhaps the purest of them all: uninhibited, clean, precise and 100% representative of its terroir.

Try the 2007 Saint Bris from Simonnet Febvre for a sampling of this appellation’s potential. Made from the fruit of 25+ year old vines, this Sauvignon Blanc is “very fresh and intense, with zesty lemon hints, a grassy nose, a very creamy texture and elegant flavors that linger on the silky smooth finish.” –Winemaker Jean-Philppe Archambaud.

Mademoiselle de T Pouilly Fumé 2008

Pouilly Fumé, by contrast, is perhaps the most famous Sauvignon Blanc territory in the world (though New Zealand does seem to be gaining ground!). Kimmeridgian limestone and flint slopes are this region’s secret weapon. The flavor profile of Sauvignon Blanc grown on these soils is so unique that even amateur tasters can usually pick out the Pouilly Fumé in a blind tasting. The style of wine here is irreproducible outside the confines of the Loire. Typical flavors include lemongrass, gooseberries, flint, citrus, freshly-cut herbs and musk. These are perfumed wines that possess great acidity and amazing aromatics.

Mademoiselle de T 2008 is an excellent example of the typical, classical style of Pouilly Fumé. This is 13th century estate Château de Tracy’s second label. It is perhaps a bit less complicated than Tracy, but is also more approachable and pleasant. 25+ year old vines contribute the fruit for this Sauvignon Blanc, which in the 2008 vintage is amazingly fresh and concentrated. Count Henry d’Assay, who manages the estate, describes this wine as follows: ‘Very grassy, herbaceous aromas lead to a wine that is dominated by minerality and pink grapefruit. It is intense, ripe and concentrated, but there is an element of tension in its crisp aftertaste.’ This is perhaps one of the rare Pouilly Fumés that retails for under $20. It rivals the saint for the title of best value in Sauvignon Blancs!

Clos Nardian 2004

Though Bordeaux has not built its dazzling reputation on high-quality Sauvignon Blancs, there are many to be found and enjoyed. Their style is once again unique: many of Bordeaux’s best Sauvignon Blancs are actually a blend,with Sémillon and often Muscadelle completing the palette. Unlike the racy, zesty Sauvignon Blancs from the northern regions, Bordeaux are often softened by oak ageing. This adds vanilla and spices to the mix of flavors. These Sauvignon Blancs are therefore less a reflection of their particular terroir and more an expression of the particular château’s house style.

Clos Nardian 2004 is a delicious example of a Sauvignon Blanc blend from Bordeaux that benefited from oak ageing. Made by Château Teyssier, this white is a blend of 40% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Sémillon and 20% Muscadelle. The grapes come from two acres in and around Saint Aubin de Branne near Saint Emilion. Six months of ageing in new oak barrels confer a rich, custard-like quality to this wine. Lemons, baked apples, peach cobbler and cloves characterize the palate. Clos Nardian has a great deal of viscosity and weight on the tongue. This is the ideal style for those who enjoy California’s new trend of oaked Sauvignon Blancs.

These three unique versions of Sauvignon Blanc will get you through the blazing summer months. Buy the Saint, Mademoiselle and Clos Nardian and stick them in the fridge before work. All day long you will look forward to an exciting (and refreshing!) taste adventure through France’s best Sauvignon Blanc regions.