Wine Blog
Domaine de Valmoissine is considered by some wine critics to be one of the highest quality Vin de Pays from France. Located just 50 miles North of Saint Tropez, you would expect this Pinot Noir to be flashy and exuberant, much like the people that frequent Cannes. You imagine big alcohol, feeble acidity, sun-dried fruit and considerable weight on the palate. A Rhône version of the delicate Pinot Noir grape seems only natural.
One taste of Valmoissine demonstrates the contrary. This Southern French wine is actually Burgundian in style. Tom Stevenson of 'The New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia' commented, "Few Burgundians would believe this is not a Burgundy, and a fine one at that." He goes on to say that Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is "better than most Burgundies twice its price." How does Louis Latour obtain Burgundian finesse and elegance in the South of France?
One of the secrets is altitude. Due to global warming, a good number of smart winemakers are running for the hills in order to find suitable terroir that still benefits from a longer growing season and moderate temperatures. Ahead of the trend, Louis Latour found just such a spot high up in the hills of Provence in 1989. The vineyards of Valmoissine were planted at an altitude of 1,500 feet above sea level, on the site of the ancient monastery of Valmoissine. At that altitude, the evenings are cool and almost frostless while the days are full of Provencal sunshine. Ripeness is obtained while acidity is preserved during a hang time as long as that of the Grand crus of Burgundy.
Speaking of the Grand Crus, Louis Latour treats Valmoissine as if it were one. With the freedom to choose the best plots and orientation during planting, Louis Latour was able to optimize the vineyard conditions. The vines are south-facing, creating the perfect exposure to the sun. They are treated with the same care as those of the ubiquitous Chambertin. Yields are kept low to ensure optimal ripeness and sugar content in the grapes. Rigorous sorting in the vineyard is commonplace. The harvest is entirely performed by hand.
The grapes are then sorted and vinified in open-top vats as in Burgundy. The wine is then aged in Louis Latour's own barrels, which complement and enhance the bright Pinot Noir fruit. The resulting wine is rich in color and balanced in tannins.
Perhaps the best aspect of Louis Latour's Domaine de Valmoissine Pinot Noir is that it is able to masquerade as a Village-level Burgundian Pinot Noir. Despite its origins in the South of France and its status as a Vin de Pays, Valmoissine surprises amateurs and experienced tasters alike with its elegance, ripeness, balance and complexity. At only $15 a bottle, this movie star is also a bargain. Try a bottle today - we think you will be bedazzled!
Over dinner at Le Garage last week, a fellow wine aficionado asked the classic question - 'If you were stranded on a deserted island with only one beverage, which would it be?' To a seemingly difficult dilemma, I replied without hesitation: Champagne!!! Is that even a question? What better to quench your thirst and refresh your parched palate than an ice-cold flute of sparkling French Pinot Noir? And for a prolonged séjour on a budget, I would take a case of Crémant de Bourgogne.
Speaking of Crémant, don't be confused by the très chic local versions from Northern California which have very little to do with the real gig. True Crémant comes from France and is the fruit of strict regulations defining every part of the winemaking process, from grape to bottle. I know what you are thinking - and have to agree that the French seem obnoxiously rule-happy! Besides the boasting factor, what's the point? Amazingly enough, these regulations are not intended to be cumbersome; they actually serve to sketch the outlines of a targeted taste profile within which each Crémant should fall. More importantly, they establish a standard of quality to which each Crémant should adhere.
Crémants are by definition vinified in la méthode tradionnelle, as in Champagne, and are subject to the pre-1994 yield limits of Champagne (100 liters from 150 kilograms of grapes). The most well-known are Crémant de Bourgogne, Crémant de Loire, Crémant d'Alsace and Crémant de Limoux, although these sparklers are made in virtually every region from local varietals. Crémant de Bourgogne, for example, is composed of Chardonnay and/or Pinot Noir, and is typically a blend of over 50 different still wines from multiple vintages. This particular Crémant would more appropriately be dubbed petit champagne, for all the commonalities it shares with the more glamorous sparklers to the West. Crémants de Bourgogne can therefore be considered an inexpensive version of the world's most sought after wine!
Simonnet Febvre has specialized in and built a name for itself producing high-quality Crémants since 1840, sourcing its fruit exclusively within the appellation of Chablis. The Kimmeridgian limestone found in both Chablis and nearby Champagne translates into a mineral-driven wine that dances on the palate. Simonnet-Febvre takes great pride in its Crémants, and each cuvée is truly a labor of love. Many of the cellar tasks that would be automated elsewhere are performed by hand at Simonnet Febvre. A passion for purity and a respect for place guide each step of winemaker Jean-Philippe Archambaud's decisions in the cellar.
Crémants are ideal for refreshment on a desert island but they also serve as the perfect daily sparkler, the bubbly that affords you a daily celebration of life. They make a rejuvenating apéritif, a classy pairing for your favorite pasta and white meat dishes and a luxurious mimosa. Celebrate the beginning of September today with a glass of Simonnet Febvre Crémant Rosé.
