Wine Blog

"Des Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages à prix très raisonnables qui ne manquent ni de couleur, ni de charpente, ni de beaux tanins, ni de finesse..." -Le Nouveau Guide des Vins de France

Among the oldest winegrowing regions in France, Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages is now recognized worldwide for producing wines of intense bouquet and typified aromas. We affectionately call them baby Châteauneuf-du-Papes since their taste profile is very similar to that of the Southern Rhône's most treasured appellation. With the same red clayey soil and colorful stones scattered throughout the rows of vines, several of the villages within the Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages appellation are very similar to their more famous neighbor, in terms of micro-climate and varietals, and they can yield amazingly structured and deeply colored wines. 

95 communes take part in this appellation which distinguishes itself from straight Côtes-du-Rhône by lower yields, older vines and superior plots. Both appellations, however, are known for offering an excellent quality-to-price ratio, perhaps the best in the Rhône valley. Around 20 varietals are authorized and planted in the Villages, the majority of which are Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Mourvèdre.

Poets and wine critics have likened tasting a good Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages to taking a stroll across the Pont du Gard, glancing at the Roman arches at dusk, the crickets in full chorus, while the scent of lavender and olive leaves drift on the soft evening breeze.  But poetry aside, the fruits and herbs that jump from the glass of a lovely, unoaked Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages seem to encapsulate the very fragrances and flavors of Southern France. These are 5-sense wines, appealing to more than just the palate, offering a true experience.

Rouge Garance 2006 is a delicious, palate-coating example of this experience. With the pop of its cork, you may find yourself in Avignon! We hope you enjoy a glass of this wine with roasted lamb covered in Herbes de Provence and rubbed with garlic.

Piperade is without a shadow of a doubt one of San Francisco's best Basque restaurants. The menu is exhilarating, the ambiance warm with a natural wood decor, the owner and servers professional and wine savvy. In the comfort of the atrium and under cloudless blue skies (so very rare for the City of Fog), we were feeling in good spirits; a sampling of the seemingly innumerable and hopelessly appealing hors d'oeuvres was in order. Having uncorked a bottle of Simonnet Febvre Chablis 2005, we were prepared for the ripe watermelon and tomato salad, tossed green beans, cala a la plancha and stuffed piquillo peppers.

The magic occurred when we tasted the stuffed piquillo peppers along with a sip of Chablis.  The warm and oozing goat cheese with the firm, flavorful peppers and fresh herbs were met by the vibrant citrus of this un-oaked Chardonnay in a splash of warm and cold, tangy and rich. The French kiss of flavorful Basque cuisine and minerally Chablisien wine combined with the caress of the sun in a sort of Spanish pueblo setting,  was no less than sublime - and yet at the same time so very simple. The key was in the harmony and I must say we couldn't have planned it. Some (if not most!) of the best pairings are fortuitous.

Try this combination at home and let us know if it moves you, too!

We just returned from a pleasant wine tasting pilgrimage to one of California's epicenters for quality Pinot Noir: San Luis Obispo. Given that the majority of the bottles we consume on a weekly basis are from Burgundy, we figured we needed to change it up a bit, experience other versions of Pinot Noir to “better appreciate the grape's potential”. In short, we were thirsty!

Market research has never been so enjoyable, so easy on the eyes and taste buds. The countryside in San Luis is simply breathtakingly beautiful, with extinct volcanic craters lining up on the horizon, nestled between rolling golden hills, orange orchards interspersed with olive trees and lavender, lazy grazing cows and sheep, and my favorite - row upon row of vivacious vines, extending as far as the eye can see. The coastal influence makes San Luis Obispo the Carneros of mid-California and locals believe they are well situated to craft Burgundian-style Pinot Noir.

Wolff vineyards in particular went to great lengths to explain the Burgundian-like techniques they practice in the vineyards and cellars to make their Pinot more French in style. Indeed, one of the proprietors described Wolff's Estate Pinot Noir as a stepping stone between California and Burgundian Pinots. The vineyard is planted on the slope of one of those striking extinct craters and benefits from volcanic soil with excellent drainage. The Pinot Noir is hardly irrigated and the clones are all straight from Dijon and Pommard. Additionally, the vineyards are farmed organically (and I understand the winery will soon be solar-powered). We were definitely impressed with the resulting wines, and had to agree that despite the higher alcohol content (which is inevitable in California) of their Pinot Noir, it did taste and smell of Burgundy.

That said (and thank you again to Wolff vineyards for the warm welcome and the informative tasting), if you really want to get your palate on a Burgundian style Pinot, we have to recommend that you return to the source. Though California releases many truly excellent Pinots, they are often more expensive (alas!) and higher in alcohol than your average delicious red Burgundy, and our market research indicates they lack that hint of je ne sais quoi that can only come from Burgundian terroir.

For less than $20 a bottle, Louis Latour brings you Santenay 2003 and Marsannay 2006, both from the famed Côte d'Or. These two Pinots provide the minerality, the depth of fruit and the slight touch of wood coupled with nice acidity and ripe tannins that, when combined in your glass, form the perfect picture of Burgundian Pinot. Because the fruit is kept in balance and the alcohol is moderate, your palate is able to perceive of the minerality that would otherwise be overshadowed.  Delicate nuances are also able to shine through and acidity creates shape in the mouth.  Unmistakable earthiness is the final seal of authenticity on the palate. These Pinot Noirs exemplify what local winemakers are striving for: true Burgundian style - balanced yet unbridled pleasure.

There is no doubt that Californian Pinots yield tons of pleasure as well – or that their particular flair should be appreciated for its own intrinsic qualities and uniqueness (once again, the point of our market research!). But if it’s truly Burgundy you want, our advice is that you look no further. Bonne degustation!