Wine Blog

Our Top Three Values of 2006 (Whites)

The very first reviews of this vintage were unbelievably optimistic. The press had gained its second wind after the rush of the 2005 red and white Burgundies. Critics were proclaiming that the 2006 was to eclipse its predecessor, offering some of the best examples of perfectly balanced Chardonnay in decades. With less Botrytis than in 2005, these wines were said to have the purity of fruit that only comes from optimally ripe and healthy grapes.

Given more time to review and re-taste, a number of critics have come to a different conclusion altogether - 2006 is indeed great, but overshadowing the immense quality of the vintage are the staggering price tags which make the 2005s seem like royal bargains in comparison. Considering the exchange rate when importers were purchasing these wines, the prices seem justifiable but nevertheless shocking. Collectors take one quick glance at price lists before hustling to snatch up any remaining 2005s, as if the slogan for the 2006s read: "Last year was just phenomenal, wasn't it?."

It was. But 2006 offers wines with lower acidity and better fruit. They are more approchable and can be consumed earlier. For restaurants, these wines spell 'bonheur' because they have the prestige of a legendary vintage with the early-drinking advantage so typical of lesser vintages. Burgundy expert Allen Meadows comments: "There is so much richness to the wines that they will probably always provide quality drinking experiences in much the same way that the ‘92s did in their youth as they never did really close up. Perhaps the best thing about 2006 is that it should be an ideal vintage for restaurant wine lists or even as wine by the glass alternatives."Indeed, the quality of the 2006 vintage in undeniable and there are values to be had - for those willing to hunt. You really don't need to look far but for those unwilling, we will make it simple. Here are our top three values in the 2006 vintage:

1. Montagny La Grande Roche 1er cru 2006

This wine offers Premier cru quality from an up and coming appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise. It has repeatedly been praised by international wine critics. Unoaked, sleek and clean with brilliant minerality, ripe peaches and lemon zest, this $25 white Burgundy is a striking value on its own but is clearly unrivaled when on a shelf with California Chardonnays.

Robert Parker says: 'Louis Latour...for all intents and purposes, but Montagny on the wine map.'

2. Viré Clessé 2006

Everyone who tastes this wine marvels at the lovely oak accents and rich texture on the palate. We then explain that this Chardonnay from the Mâconnais is 100% unoaked. Such spice, such round, mouth-filling body is remarkable in a wine from the Mâconnais. Apple pie with cinnamon, vanilla and lemon cream coat the palate. In blind tastings, this wine has been mistaken for high-ranking premier cru Burgundy. At $18, the sheer quality of this wine shines brighter than that of any other white we have seen in this category.

3. Beaune Blanc 2006

And yes, values can be found in the Côte d'Or as well. This is a favorite among true Louis Latour aficionados. Consistent in quality and perfectly-oaked, this wine also offers relative value compared to its neighbors. Beaune Blanc 2006 was Bruce Sanderson's favorite wine of the vintage: 'The 2006 whites achieved a high level of ripeness, and the acidity is on the low side; my favorites were those with the best balance, like the fresh, honey and peach-scented Beaune (87-90, non-blind).' At only $27, this is perhaps the quintessential value of the 2006 vintage.