Why do we like acidity in wine?

Ever wondered why you crave that glass (or three) of chilled-to-perfection Champagne on a hot August morning? In all truthfulness, you've probably never journeyed that far down the road of gastronomical introspection - bubbly is, after all, a natural beverage choice for ultimate weekend relaxation. When you consider the pourquoi of it, however, you quickly realize that it is the thirst-quenching quality of Champagne that makes it what the parched mouth most desires. And therein lies the beauty of acidity! 

Acid is a term most would consider somewhat negative, suggestive of sour stomach sensations and frantic Tums consumption, doubling over in pain from reflux or reeling from some outrageous psychedelic experience. It is amazing to consider that despite these very real and gut-wrenching associations, acid is absolutely vital for a wine to be considered pleasant and balanced. Acidity affects the color, flavor components and age-ability of a wine, and is responsible for its refreshing quality.

Wines high in acidity can be tart or sour but when the levels are just right, the wine seems to dance on the palate, with a sensation of freshness and vibrancy. The acidity counterbalances any sweetness or bitterness and gives volume to the wine on the tongue, which becomes energetic and lively, as opposed to fat, flabby and lethargic. Acids also stimulate the salivary glands, preparing the mouth for more tasteful pleasures.

We all agree that Champagne is the perfect aperitif because of this principal; as the French would say, le champagne ouvre l’appétit’ – it opens the appetite and prepares the body for good digestion. This is the objective aspect of acidity – it is very necessary to your enjoyment of the food and wine experience. The amount of acid that is desirable in this equation is what is so very subjective, depending on the preferences and habits of each individual taster. What is indisputable, however, is that higher acid wines pair much better with food, lifting up the flavors and enhancing the unity in the composition of disparate tastes.

The levels of acidity in wine are highly variable and depend largely on the climate where the grapes are grown. French wines tend to have more pronounced acidity when compared to new world wines, given that the French microclimates are relatively milder and the grapes can mature phenolically without developing an overabundance of sugars. Their gastronomy has been artfully crafted in such as way as to smoothly and seamlessly harmonize with these higher-acid wines on the palate, with neither element being perceived as dominant. If such dishes were to be paired with low acid wines, the combination would likely deflate like a balloon in the mouth and give way to a flat, nondescript agglomeration of competing flavors.

French wine drinkers usually come to crave the acid feeling they perceive in their wines of choice, having fine-tuned their palates to both detect and evaluate acidity when considering the quality of wine. Burgundy is the acid lover’s treasure trove, offering an unlimited selection of refreshing Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs that boast good grip and excellent sugar-tannin-acid balances. Though many of the whites undergo 100% malo-lactic fermentation (which transforms the tart, green apple-like malic acid into softer, milk-like lactic acid), they retain an unbelievable freshness which can handle a great degree of ripe fruit and oak without getting flabby.

If there is a perfectly-oaked Chardonnay, there is also a perfectly acidic one – and many of these can be found in Chablis. According to the Wine Enthusiast, Chablis is “the purest expression of Chardonnay”, thanks to a terroir well-suited to making fresh, steely and enticing wines that maintain their zing, even after barrel fermentation, oak aging and/or malo-lactic fermentation. A good Chablis demonstrates the sheer beauty of acidity…and makes you thirst for more. Taste one today and then let us know how the acid impacted your experience.
 

Comments

1) Christine - 05/26/2009
What a wonderful article, perfect for me just before summer! I can't wait to sit on my porch and drink some champagne under the summer shade; I just purchased some Riedel glassware from www.vintagecellars.com in preparation for this, and I'm excited!

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